Mr Yan Veg harvest 2012

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Nancie I had similar troubles when we had our floods a while ago. I found this bit of info invaluable, hope it helps you out a bit:)
After severe flooding, fertiliser is needed to replace the feed value leeched away as the waters drained. But more important is the soil Ph value, the balance between acid (sour) soil and alkaline (sweet) soil. Flooding can make the soil very acid, which does not suit most common garden plants, therefore I recommend dressing the soil with a generous amount of garden lime. If you wish to check on how much damage has occurred, D. I. Y. Ph soil testing kits are widely available at garden outlets.
Another problem with flooding is the deposit of mineral salts from the standing water; these salts can cause serious problems for your plants. These salts can lock up certain trace elements in the soil. Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulphate) spread at the rate of 1 pound per 20 square yards will help mitigate this problem by releasing these trace elements.
Also magnesium is an important element in the production of chlorophyll, the green part of the plant. This application of Epsom salts will correct any leaf yellowing that can often occur after flooding.
A sowing of lettuce seeds will give a quick indication of the state of the soil. the lettuce seedlings being very sensitive to soil conditions. If the soil conditions continue to give trouble over the longer period it is worth having your soil tested by a professional body, some of the leading university agricultural departments carry out this service for a fee.
After flooding many shrubs and perennials, may look to be dead, but its always worth waiting a while before abandoning them. Damaged lawns are best left alone for a while, mowing on saturated soil will pull out the grass by the roots, the lawn will soon recover next spring.
Small trees and large shrubs will benefit from temporary staking to stop them rocking in the wind. The flooding will have loosened the roots, and until the roots re-establish themselves the plant is in a fragile state.
 
This garden is not producing like I want it to.

Potatoes were a bust - guessing it was too hot and I grow / grew them in containers. I won't waste time and space on potatoes again until I have enough area to warrant it.

Today I got my first tomatoes. This is over a month later than normal.

I went out and bought a fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium with magnisium which was formulated for ripening. It is actually a hydroponic nutrient with 2-48-25 as the NPK. I went with this as I use systems like Earthbox which are a poor man's hydroponic system. This fertilizer set me back $30 but will last for years.

Two big things set me back this year:
I was concentrating on building a new kitchen this spring so things didn't get started as they should
My second child was just born about a week ago so I have been spending energy else where

I still have high hopes for my 5 butternut squash vines which have a lot of fruit on them and I hope to really push a fall garden.

This week I hope to plant:
beets (more)
greens like mustard, collards, and turnips
turnips
broccoli
brussles sprouts
pea pods

As of 8/26/2012 I have harvested 11.2 kg from my garden at a cost of $4.49 per pound.
 
Update:

As of the morning of 9/3 I have harvested 14.6 kg from my garden at a cost of $3.47 per pound.

I think I will still harvest potatoes and basil today. The potatoes are the wild card but there will be a large basil harvest. My basil plants are over a meter tall and my toddler can easily hide behind each plant.
 
Update:

As of the morning of 9/15 I have harvested 18.8 kg from my garden at a cost of $2.69 per pound.

Potatoes were an absolute bust and I won't waste my time with them again in this small yard.

The drought and extreme heat has greatly reduced my harvest. As a slicer tomato I only grew Cherokee Purples (5 plants) and after talking to several neighbors this is just a bad year for them locally.

Next year I will replace several of my small self watering planters (like earthbox) with traditional wooden planters with a generous portion of compost mixed in.
 
My toms (Purple Cherokee) didn't do very well either!
The fruit were smaller and the taste was more acidic then last year.
Brandywine Red were a lot better but still smaller then lasy year.
String beans were a bust as were the cucs for the most part!
Heat stress and lack of dependable rainfall are the main cause of my poor crop.

Hoping next year will be a better year weatherwise!
 
Here's a nearly season end update. I put the ax to most plants and turned over my main bed and added a hefty amount of material to compost in place - a mix of grass clippings and fall leafs shredded by a neighbor's bagging lawnmower along with 3.8 cubic feet of peat.

I have harvested 68.18 pounds of produce from my garden at a cost of $1.70 a pound.

Since the start of 2011 season I harvested 180.95 pounds at a cost of $1.75 a pound


I still have some greens going but the weights won't be too high.

This reflects any money I spent on my garden since the end of last season. This also includes things I bought knowing they will last into next season.

Some notes on my 100 square feet of drought stricken garden :
- potatoes are a waste of space for the yield
- trellis anything possible
- mulch heavily
- plant more greens next year (collards, mustard, kale)
- I want to try both pole green beans and pole lima beans but will skip the edamame
- replace several smaller containers with larger ones. I will build boxes this winter.
- plant at least 14 feet of snap pea rows, we never seem to have enough for our tastes
- minimum of 8 basil plants for pesto, let some go to seed to collect
- will try brandywine tomatoes in addition to grape and purple cherokee
- use a slicer variety of cucumber not a pickle size
- get garlic in no later than 15 October
- plan out planting dates better
- get a pellet gun or practice with a bow to remove the chipmunk problem
- use more compost (get those worms working overtime)
 


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